In 2023, when people talk about a visit to the salon for a makeover, it’s not just about the hair on their heads anymore – eyebrows have taken center stage. The eyebrow industry is booming, not only in terms of salon treatments but also in the array of products available for home use.
According to Allied Market Research, the global market size for brow gel alone was valued at $264.9 million in 2021 and is projected to reach $431.7 million by 2031. Over the past year, 73% of U.S. beauty consumers surveyed by The Benchmarking Company reported purchasing both eyelash makeup products and tools as well as eyebrow products or tools, marking an increase from 66% in 2018.
It’s challenging to pinpoint the exact origin of our modern fascination with eyebrows. Was it the launch of Anastasia Beverly Hills by Anastasia Soare in the late 1990s when the concept of brow products was still in its infancy? Or did it begin with entrepreneurs like Vanita Parti of Blink Brow Bar and Shavata Singh of Shavata, who introduced brow bars and threading to Western audiences in the early 2000s?
A more recent turning point can be traced back to 2015 when Glossier introduced Boy Brow, a one-swipe brow pomade that gained a cult following. In June of this year, Glossier expanded its range with two new shades, boasting that globally, one Boy Brow is sold every minute.
Benefit Cosmetics made a significant move in 2016 by launching a 45-product brow collection. Though the brand has always had a focus on brows – it offered shaping services when it opened its first boutique in San Francisco in 1976 – the success of the collection solidified Benefit’s status as the global brand most closely associated with eyebrows, according to Cision.
The Significance of Brow Shape and Symbolism
Brow styling is far from a recent development, given the unique aesthetic opportunities eyebrows provide. Jared Bailey, Benefit’s Senior Director of Brand Engagement, explained in an email that brows “bring balance and proportion to the face and eyes.” For instance, altering the distance between brows can affect the appearance of the nose’s bridge, while adjusting brow length can impact facial fullness and roundness. Brows play a vital role in breaking up facial planes and creating various optical illusions, similar to contouring.
Throughout history, brows have reflected changing beauty standards. Ancient Egyptians used black carbon paint to emulate the god Horus with thick brows, the Renaissance saw the veneration of geometrical brow shapes, and the 1920s featured thin, straight brows inspired by actress Clara Bow.
Renowned makeup artist Bobbi Brown recalled the more recent evolution of brows. She noted that the 1960s favored slim brow shapes, contrasting with the 1970s trend for a more natural look. The 1980s embraced full, bold brows, exemplified by Brooke Shields. Then, in the 1990s, the skinny brow trend associated with makeup artist Francois Nars took hold.
Cultural Preferences and Brows
Brow preferences can also reflect cultural variations. Vanita Parti, CEO of Blink Brow Bar, explained that Middle Eastern customers often seek fullness with a sculpted and defined finish. British and U.S. customers tend to prefer a more groomed yet discreet look, while Indian customers emphasize preserving their brows’ dimensions and adhering to precise brow mapping techniques.
A Trend with Enduring Appeal
According to beauty historian Jill Burke, eyebrows are relatively easy to modify and offer room for experimentation. Consequently, we seem to cycle through brow trends more rapidly than before. Recent years have witnessed trends like Kim Kardashian’s bold geometric block brows, Cara Delevigne’s feathered brows, and Lizzo’s bleached-out brows.
Social media plays a pivotal role in the swift evolution of brow trends. Selfie culture exposes us to our faces more frequently than our ancestors experienced, and tutorials and tools abound, hastening the pace of change.
The Future of Brow Business
Lisa Payne, Head of Beauty at trends intelligence agency Stylus, acknowledges that, currently, eyebrow products constitute a small portion of the global color cosmetics market, accounting for less than 3%. However, as brands continue to innovate with new products that align with social media-driven trends such as soap brows or bleached brows, this percentage is expected to grow.
The fascination with brows shows no sign of waning, as they continue to captivate consumers and offer opportunities for businesses to innovate and expand their offerings.