(Xeeis) — The iconic Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show has returned, but it’s undergone a radical transformation. For more than two decades, this annual cultural spectacle featured supermodels donning extravagant lingerie and angel wings, strutting down a runway to the tunes of music megastars like Justin Timberlake, Lady Gaga, Jay-Z, and Kanye West. However, the familiar formula has been replaced by a feature-length documentary titled “The Tour ’23,” which made its debut on Prime Video.
This documentary marks the end of a five-year hiatus for the fashion show, prompted by declining viewership and a slew of controversies. These controversies ranged from a former executive’s remarks about trans models to growing criticism of the brand’s limited perspective on sex appeal, as well as revelations in a documentary about the company’s historical connections to disgraced financier Jeffrey Epstein.
So, what can viewers expect from “The Tour”? Unlike traditional runway shows like Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty, this comeback film doesn’t focus on a single runway presentation. Instead, it showcases four collections created by independent designer-artists based in Lagos, Bogotá, London, and Tokyo. Each presentation unfolds in an airy Barcelona villa, with host Gigi Hadid guiding viewers through the segments. Accompanying the veteran Victoria’s Secret models like Naomi Campbell and Adriana Lima are a diverse ensemble of models, including Adut Akech, Winnie Harlow, Quannah Chasinghorse, Paloma Elsesser, Hailey Bieber, and Lila Moss, among others.
Before each showcase, short films introduce the 20 women creatives who collectively form “the VS20.” These creative minds include designers and filmmakers, such as Piscis Canizales, a Colombian dancer and activist who gained fame for voguing in front of heavily armed police at a protest in 2021, and KOM_I, a Japanese singer formerly part of the cult electronic J-Pop band Wednesday Campanella.
“The Tour” is positioned as “the ultimate expression of the Victoria’s Secret brand transformation,” according to Raúl Martinez, the company’s head creative director. It presents a more expansive and global interpretation of femininity compared to the brand’s traditional image. For example, Lagos-based designer Bubu Ogisi draws inspiration from Yoruba and Igbo mythologies, while Tokyo’s Jen-Fang Shueh of Jenny Fax explores the physical realities of aging. (It’s worth noting that the collections featured in “The Tour” will not be sold by Victoria’s Secret, although some products inspired by the documentary will be available online.)
In addition to this new film, Victoria’s Secret is promoting funding initiatives for women artists and entrepreneurs, addressing long-standing criticisms related to cultural insensitivity and the promotion of unrealistic body ideals. One designer featured, Michaela Stark, challenges traditional norms by celebrating body curves in her lingerie designs. Stark explained in “The Tour” that she participated in the project to confront body dysmorphia and even presented plus-size models wearing archival Victoria’s Secret runway outfits.
Despite the remarkable talent assembled by Victoria’s Secret, “The Tour” feels somewhat disjointed. Unlike the original fashion show, it lacks a cohesive narrative, offering brief moments, subdued runways, and storytelling that barely scratches the surface of its subjects. The production is undoubtedly star-studded, with interludes featuring Doja Cat and Afro-Colombian singer Goyo, as well as a mix of interviews, music videos, footage of dance activism, behind-the-scenes glimpses of art creation, poetic audio from writers, and unconventional performance art.
“The Tour” aims to reshape and redefine Victoria’s Secret’s identity, but what that identity truly entails remains somewhat elusive. As the company retired its “Angels” and introduced new “VS Collective” ambassadors like Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Megan Rapinoe, it has arguably struggled to find a clear direction for its lingerie offerings. While the “new” Victoria’s Secret may be exploring more inclusive and healthier notions of femininity and sexiness, whether it has genuinely discovered its identity through ventures like “The Tour” remains an open question.