Xeeis —New York City welcomed the return of New York Fashion Week, amidst a weekend marked by thunderstorms. The event featured several noteworthy moments, including the comebacks of iconic brands like Ralph Lauren and 3.1 Phillip Lim, as well as debuts from promising designers like Grace Ling and recent “Project Runway” champion Bishme Cromartie. Additionally, there were celebrations, such as the 10th anniversary of designer Rio Uribe’s label, Gypsy Sport.
The fashion week festivities officially began with Peter Do’s highly anticipated debut for Helmut Lang. The rising designer, originally from Vietnam, had the opportunity to reinterpret the minimalist ’90s brand for a new generation, infusing his romantic sensibilities into the collection, which included collaborations with poet Ocean Vuong. Do’s collection, particularly the men’s and women’s suits, paid homage to the label’s original aesthetic.
Coach, on the other hand, marked a milestone of its own with a star-studded celebration at the New York Public Library in Bryant Park. Stuart Vevers, the British creative director, celebrated his 10th anniversary with an exuberant collection that reimagined “American essentials.” It featured slouchy suits, oversized leather jackets, sheer dresses over leather separates, and distinctive lipstick-kissed bags. Vevers expressed a sense of playfulness throughout the collection, evident in the colorful accessories and footwear.
The week’s shows spanned across the city, from Collina Strada’s garden fantasy on a Brooklyn rooftop farm to Prabal Gurung’s display of layered gowns and sculptural gold jewelry on Roosevelt Island. Despite the rain and the island’s aerial tramway, notable personalities like Padma Lakshmi, Awkwafina, Venus Williams, and Maddie Ziegler attended the event.
Park Avenue hosted Proenza Schouler’s show, with appearances by celebrities like actor Rachel Sennott, Ayo Edebiri, and socialite Sofia Richie Grainge. Phillip Lim’s Chinatown show drew a diverse crowd, including Stephanie Hsu, Paramore’s Hayley Williams, The Kid Laroi, and Kathy Hilton, among others. The presence of “Real Housewives” stars, such as Lisa Rinna at Jason Wu and Gizelle Bryant at Sergio Hudson, added to the event’s glamour.
The most star-studded moments of the weekend were Christian Siriano’s 15th-anniversary show, featuring a front row filled with celebrities like Janet Jackson, Laura Linney, Laverne Cox, Kesha, and Avril Lavigne. The return of Ralph Lauren, who hadn’t staged a New York Fashion Week show since 2019, drew an A-list crowd, including Diane Keaton, Julianne Moore, James Marsden, Cara Delevingne, Amanda Seyfried, Jennifer Lopez (again), Keri Russell, and Gabrielle Union.
One of the standout moments during the week was the debut collection of the label Shao, hosted on Anna Delvey’s rooftop, who remains under house arrest. The event brought attention to new designers like Shao Yang, who felt blessed to be part of the fashion scene and acknowledged the challenge of being a new designer.
Elena Velez created a chaotic yet impactful runway show in a Williamsburg warehouse, featuring models in neutrals and raw hems. The show, symbolizing womanhood, included a brawl in the mud pit, adding to Velez’s reputation for subversive moments.
Tanner Fletcher’s runway show followed the theme of a beauty pageant, with models strutting while a commentator shared fun facts. The event was graced by the reigning Miss Universe, R’Bonney Gabriel.
Fashion trends throughout the week included long jackets, oversized suits, and gauzy, barely-there dresses, seen at Coach, Khaite, Jason Wu, and Eckhaus Latta. While many designers adhered to restrained color palettes, others embraced maximalist aesthetics.
Designers like Kim Shui and Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada celebrated individuality and femininity in their collections. Shui embraced ornamentation that defied conventions, while Taymour explored “the strength of radical softness” during a challenging time for trans and reproductive rights.
Sustainability-minded designers incorporated innovative materials into their collections. Taymour introduced Vegea leather made from discarded grape skins and corn husk leather in collaboration with Ugg. Kim Shui used an ancient textile process binding iron-rich mud to silk.
Studio 189, co-founded by Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah to promote African fashion, showcased vibrant textiles in traditional and contemporary styles. The collection honored the African artisans from Burkina Faso with monumental portraits displayed on the runway, symbolizing resilience against all odds.
New York Fashion Week for Spring-Summer 2024 showcased creativity, diversity, and the enduring allure of fashion in a city that continually celebrates the new.